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La Concina - New Mexican Quisine

Who would've guessed it? In 1991, salsa sales accounted for $640 million, overthrowing ketchup as the condiment king and elevating the humble chile--and Southwest cuisine--to nationwide renown.

  Although mistakenly referred to as "Mexican food" or "Tex-Mex," the dishes commonly identified with New Mexico reflect a blend of Hispanic and Indian cultures. The Spanish explorers owe a great deal to the native population, who introduced corn to their diet. In return, the Indians benefited from European vegetables introduced when Spanish settlers later colonized the region.

Virtually all Southwestern dishes make use of four main ingredients: the tortilla, pinto bean, cheese and chile. The tortilla is a round, wafer-thin bread made from coarsely ground dough (masa) that's usually cooked in a pan until it has a light-brown texture. Taking the standard refried beans (frijoles) one step further, cooks use dark pink or purple pinto beans, some of which grow organically in the state.

Perhaps the most essential ingredient for any recipe is the famous chile pepper that grows in 2,000 different varieties. The Capsicum species, encompassing a wide range of colors, sizes, shapes and spiciness, are roasted, stewed, fried, cooked or simply added fresh off the plant. Chile generally comes in either a red or green sauce. Depending on the variety, growth and harvest conditions, "hotness" can vary. Your waiter will know which is hotter. If you're the adventurous sort, ask for "Christmas"--a sample of red and green chile served side-by-side.

The sopaipilla, a light, pillow-shaped pastry deep-fried in oil and served piping hot with butter and honey, is a tasty treat any time of the day. Sopaipillas are commonly served as a side dish, but some specialty restaurants will stuff them with chiles, onions, beans, cheese and meat. For breakfast, try a chorizo burrito, a flour tortilla rolled with scrambled eggs, potatoes, scallions, red or green chile, Monterey Jack cheese and chorizo, spicy pork sausage. Or how about huevos rancheros, a corn tortilla topped with fried eggs, cheese, red or green chile and pinto beans.

If these hearty breakfast dishes don't keep away the hunger pangs, try some fajitas for lunch -- strips of beef sautéed with onions, green peppers and other vegetables. Follow it with a small bowl of green chile stew laden with chunks of meat, beans and potatoes, and you'll feel satisfied until supper. For a spicier dish, try the carne adovada, strips of pork marinated in red chile, herbs and spices and then baked until the meat is tender. Of course, a margarita or a tall, cold glass of your favorite beer will go nicely with any of these meals.

 

Tamales are another classic dish, made with a highly seasoned cornmeal and meat filling, and then steamed in a scalding corn husk to retain the natural juices. Similar to a burrito, the enchilada is a corn tortilla smothered in tangy green or red chile sauce and piled with cheese, onions, lettuce, green pepper and ground meat.

No visit to New Mexico would be complete without sampling genuine Native American cuisine. The Navajo taco is an open-faced taco heaped with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, refried beans, guacamole, a dab of sour cream and your choice of red or green chile--all served on a flat, puffy tortilla or a piece of fry bread. Pan dulce is an Indian sweet bread. Piki bread uses corn that's finely ground, cooked in boiling water until it's a mush, and then spread over a hot flat surface. The mush cooks instantly and peels off in a paper-thin sheet before being rolled up and eaten with stew.

 

 

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